In Vino Veritas

Vintner: J.H. Andresen Suers. Lda. Vintage: 2007 Appellation: "Douro" Style: Ruby Port Blend Grape/Fruit Content: Five red Portuguese varieties and grape distillates of unknown varieties Region: Douro Average Cost: $10 to $13 per 750ml bottle

Port wine is a very queer animal. There are several other fortified wines, including Sherry, vermouth, Marsala, and Madeira as well as lower end styles. But port is its own beast-generally much richer, sweeter, and smoother than the other varieties as well as possessing a higher AVB (around 19.5% or slightly higher). There are several styles of port wine-tawny, ruby, pink, and white-all of which must be produced in Portugal and fortified with grape distillates also from Portugal. It is generally served as a dessert wine. But it has also become common practice, especially in Great Britain, for port to be served with cigars (usually accompanied by coffee). Port wine is known as the Englishman's wine. It was imported to England during the reign of King William II because of an embargo he placed on French wines. Portugal, by a windfall, replaced France as the major exporter of wine to England and port wine became very popular in English pubs, where it was often served with lemon (a favorite drink to this day). Nosing the glass reveals the strongly pronounced alcohol note which is backed by the smell of jammy cherry fruit preserves. It is very rich and has strong legs. The body is full and slightly syrupy with some notes of raisin and cherry, and there is a faint taste of baker's chocolate. The finish is sweet but there is a slight burn on the back of the palate, not uncommon for a fortified wine. Altogether this wine is very pleasant and complex and maintains a good overall harmony of flavors for an inexpensive port. Ruby port is the cheapest and most commonly available and consumed style of port, which is a staple in Portuguese households (where our grandparents think it is an appropriate substitute for cough syrup). But rather than use it as an antiquated, albeit effective, home remedy, serve a ruby port with a fresh baked tart, pastry, cheesecake, or crème brulee. Ruby port is well suited to a plate of soft rind Portuguese cheese. It also tempers strong sharp cheeses well, such as English farmhouse styles. If you're used to the Californian and Australian fruit-bomb-red wines this might be a good sweet wine alternative. Bear in mind though, this is not a wine to drink in mass quantities. It is nearly double the strength of other table wines and contains a proportionally high level of sulfites, all of which contribute to one wicked hangover.

Grade: B-